This is the fifth and final part in a series of posts: Comparing close fitting slopers: Bunka vs. Aldrich
Drumroll please… let’s see how the slopers fit Greta
I transferred the patterns (which are drawn without any seam allowances) to the fabric and added seam allowances only on the side and shoulder seams. I had no sleeves and I wanted to see how the neck line and sleeves fit Greta (these are the “final” measurements). Oh, and I added a seam allowance at the front so I can pin the front pieces together.
Just a note – I made no alterations for a better fit. What you see is what you get when you draw a bodice according to instructions and sew it up. You can always make little adjustments to fit a bodice better, and most people will have to do it, to get the best fit for their body, but that was not the point of this project. Also, I was very careful when drawing these, and I checked and rechecked my calculations, but there still could be errors. But I would not expect any big ones…
So about the fit… Bunka sloper fit’s as a glove. I was very surprised! Bust point in the right place, waist where it should be, quite close fitting but still with some ease. However, Aldrich sloper was shorter and wider at waist and narrower at chest. Also it had more ease even though the calculations included 1 cm less ease when calculating full width across bust.
Here you can see that the armhole is deeper in Bunka sloper (another surprise for me) and you can see another problem on the Aldrich sloper – see the extra fabric towards the back of the armhole?
Here you can see the difference is armhole size for the slopers, Bunka being deeper. Also, Aldrich sloper does not sit horizontally – back is lower than the front. The back neck on both slopers seems to high on both slopers, but that just might be the problem with the neck width I mentioned when adjusting Greta.
This is the best view to see the problem with Aldrich sloper at the back near the armhole. Too wide. Bunka fits very well… there seems to be a little extra fabric in the back, between the bottom of shoulder and top of waist darts, but that just might be because the back is bit smaller on Greta (and somewhat flat if I can say so…).
So the verdict. Bunka fits very well, and I would actually not do any adjustments for a better fit. The Aldrich sloper does not fit so well, but that does not mean it would not improve with some adjustments (it probably would) or that it would not fit another body type. Or maybe I just made a mistake (not so likely 🙂 thinks the geek in me).
So why did I do all this. I have been reading/thinking about this for a few weeks now. I have been so focused on this, that I have even dreamt about it on occasion. So what is next for me? I will try to construct a few tops using the Bunka sloper (similar to Mrs Stylebook) and then I am planning to start a longer term project starting in Semptember when I will be creating more projects/garments and posting instructions here/on my blog. I am going to challenge myself to try and create a pattern a week just by looking at the picture of a piece of clothing I like, and manipulating the sloper. Will it work? I don’t know, but it might be fun! And it could be a good way to learn patternmaking. Would you like to make patterns and sew with me?