Comparing close fitting slopers: Bunka vs. Aldrich Part 3

This is a third part in a series of posts: Comparing close fitting slopers: Bunka vs. Aldrich

The slopers…

I created both slopers using the same measurements.The measurements correspond to Burda size 38 (all values in cm):
bust 88,
waist 70,
back length 42,
shoulder length 12,
back width 35.5,

for Aldrich method (combined with gedwoods instructions found here http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-bodice-block/) these measurements were estimated:
armscy depth 21,
chest width 32.4,
bust dart width 7,

Here is what the basic bodice block by Aldrich looks like…

aldrich original 38

And this is what the basic bodice block by Bunka looks like…

bunka basic 38I created both these slopers using the free CAD program for Mac called Caduntu. There was a little bit of a learning curve but I wanted to have an electronic version I could print any time I want. And I am a geek like that…

If we put them together they look like this…

bunka vs aldrich

To compare the slopers I did a few things… First I moved the armhole dart (Bunka) and shoulder dart (Aldrich) to the waist dart so I can compare front slopers more easily. And then I also moved the front slopers so they align at the bust point . The result was really surprising. In a good way. It seems that the bust points fall pretty much at the same distance from the shoulder. And the Bunka sloper seems to be longer. Really? I was very interested in this point to sew these up so I can see how they fit. Fit what? I need a dress form do I …

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3 thoughts on “Comparing close fitting slopers: Bunka vs. Aldrich Part 3

  1. khun iam

    Hello Nina

    I’m interesting the bunka slove style block, but i can’t find the the book 1 at any online market. so do you have any suggestion. where can i buy?

    Also i saw the short instruction of Bunka Sloper in the Pattern magic. I’m so confuse how can i measure the bust dart as 18.3, my ruler just have only 18 or 18.5

    Please kindy recommend.
    my email is khun.iam@gmail.com
    Thank you very much
    Khun Iam.

    Reply
  2. Maria Correa

    Hi, I been working with this book,
    http://www.amazon.com/Building-Patterns-Architecture-Womens-Clothing/dp/1424343534. Which is great, and you can see that every sloper has different darts in different places and different measurments. So to start form 0 you have to elaborate a sloper with shoulder dart, armhole dart, bust dart and waist dart. Every measurment of the dart is related to the bust cup, then you can manipulate the dart depending of the desing. If you use that book, you can do a basic sloper and the create what ever you want.
    Good luck

    Reply

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