Comparing close fitting slopers: Bunka vs. Aldrich Part 1

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In the next few posts I will be comparing the fit of the basic slopers constructed using two different methods:
a) Bunka method – as described in the Bunka Fashion Series Textbook 1, published by the Bunka Fashion College in Japan.
b) Aldrich metod – as described in Metric Pattern Cutting by Aldrich

Recently I wanted to make some simple sleeveless tops but I wanted to make my own patterns. I tried and failed miserably. I then puled out some purchased patterns and tried manipulating them into what I wanted and failed again. I realized I needed to start at the beginning…

In this project you can read about:
1. What resources I used
2. Slopers I drafted
3. Adjusting my brand new dress form
4. Comparing the two basic bodices

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2 thoughts on “Comparing close fitting slopers: Bunka vs. Aldrich Part 1

  1. teresa potts

    I would love to order the Bunka book you used, but cannot find it anywhere and I could not figure out how to order it from the link you provided. Help! Awesome blog.

    Reply
  2. Zeenat

    Hi
    Thanks for your post about the comparison of the Bunka sloper and Aldrich sloper. Very enlightening.

    What I found more helpful is how you gave a detailed step by step in your tutorial of modifying a sloper into a design.

    I have purchased many books- I used to be a fashion design student but dropped out due to financial constraints- I bought Helen Joseph Armstrong’s first. When I made my sloper, the measurement was off. And I hate the way the instructions for slopers are in the book, it’s not just explanatory enough.

    I bought Cal Patch and loved the projects but I have never sewn with a stretchy fabric and I am to slim/tiny to wear very wide clothes without darts. What I don’t like about the book is it never taught dart manipulation.

    I bought other books and worked with them, But there was always a but.

    I started looking for other books that could teach me how to make slopers and further develop them into designs.

    I came across a review of japanese books and got very interested and curious till i found out about bunka books.

    I have ordered the textbook 3 and it is yet to arrive.

    But please I have a few questions and a request, if you don’t mind.

    When I create a sloper, I find it hard to develop my designs from them, I simply dont know how to. Do i have to always redraft the basic bodice and go from there or trace out the basic sloper block i first made and go from there?

    I think I have my measurements wrong, I dont understand how though. I am very slim but curvy with a big butt for my stature. I wear 32 A size bra. My waist is 25 from where i measure. Is my waist around where my abdomen is or above it? then what is the appropriate neck width and drop for a size 4 or size 6?

    What is fitting really? Do i have to make the whole sloper and sew it up and try it on? or is it like Project Runway fitting- They hardly sew up their garments before sewing up. I don’t have a dress form so is the fitting process different when doing it on myself? how do i fo it?

    Please can you do another tutorial of making lets say a button up shirt, from concept to finish: basic sloper- modifying into shirt- to sewing- fitting-finishing. Please I wouldnt mind paying you for this tutorial.

    I just want to be able to make something out of the basic slopers. I am tired of sewing up basic slopers. I want to make my own designs and I am stuck.

    Thanks

    Bless You

    Reply

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